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Thread: Motor replacement

  1. #21
    Original Gearhead pdexta's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    From what I've read the general consensus is that RPMs and power kill oil pumps. It sounds like they don't appreciate going too much over the 7000rpm redline.

    Personally I always felt like the extra TQ applied to an oil pump from a modded car was pretty insignificant compared to spinning it an extra 1000rpms, but that theory isn't supported by anything other than not having broken an oil pump before.
    Scott
    2001 Honda S2000 ♦ 6sp
    2005 Civic Hybrid ♦ 5sp

  2. #22
    Original Gearhead Joe Morreale's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    Since power in my car starts dropping at 6500, I have my rev limiter set to 7k. Only tuning to 210-215whp. Especially with vvt oil pump, I think I'm ok. It's a daily, street car.

    I am anticipating a problem. When I last had the ppf off, one of the trans mount bolts did not screw in all the way easily. The last couple turns were real hard. I torqued it to 80, or whatever it's supposed to be. I'm afraid I cross threaded it and it won't come out without breaking. Now it could have just been dirt on the captured nuts. My question out there is: Do I take a breaker bar and put whatever force is necessary, or do I wait until I can get an air impact on it.
    If it breaks, I'm pretty sure I'll have to cut the ppf, at the tail of the trans. Pull motor and trans. Drill or grind out capture nut. Use different ppf.
    If I do use a breaker bar, with a pipe, and snap the one bolt, is it ok to drive easy. BTW it's the front bolt.
    2001 SE British Racing Green - FM frame rails - FM solid sway bar - FM clutch- Mishimoto 53mm radiator - Bilsteins -
    Complete MK Turbo kit with intercooler - 3'' custom exhaust - Custom door panels - Custom "shorty" console

  3. #23
    Individual-1 ☚☻☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    If you get the bolt out, you could chase it with a thread cutter. If you shear the bolt and need to drill it out, you could use a helicoil.

  4. #24
    Original Gearhead pdexta's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    I bought a used ppf from treasure coast once for a very reasonable price. I would think it'd be fine to temporarily r drive it with only one front bolt in.
    Scott
    2001 Honda S2000 ♦ 6sp
    2005 Civic Hybrid ♦ 5sp

  5. #25
    Original Gearhead Joe Morreale's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    The last time I got a ppf from Treasure Coast it was $45, I think. The bolts were another 10 or 15. Not bad. I'll try taking the bolt out in my driveway. If I snap it, I'll go get another ppf. I have one in the shed but the rear capture nuts have come loose and they're a bitch to tighten and loosen. I wish you could just tack weld them in place. It's really a stupid setup.

    I've had the wastegate actuator off and the waste gate wired, so no boost. Other than being slow it doesn't really run that bad. I drove it to Deland and back, about 225 miles. I had drained the blow by can prior and it only blew out about and ounce, maybe ounce and a half of oil. Even though the motor coming Tue. I'm not in desperate need to change it right away. With boost though, that trip to Deland would have puked 4 ounces. I guess if it was hooked up to the intake, like stock, it would smoke pretty good.
    2001 SE British Racing Green - FM frame rails - FM solid sway bar - FM clutch- Mishimoto 53mm radiator - Bilsteins -
    Complete MK Turbo kit with intercooler - 3'' custom exhaust - Custom door panels - Custom "shorty" console

  6. #26
    Original Gearhead Joe Morreale's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    Motor got delivered yesterday. Crated real well. A couple of sensors, that I would have replaced anyway wound up cracked. The only issue is: it is rusty. I should have known, since the car was removed from the road for rust issues. It's of no real concern, I'm going to clean it up and paint it.

    My only worry is the 10mm bolts on the pulleys and timing covers. I'll soak them with pb blaster and have new grade 10.9 flange bolts to replace them. I just hope they come off without breaking. I do have hope though. It looks as though the timing belt had been changed as the lower left bolt and corresponding hole area on the lower timing cover is broke. Probably overtorqued it. I have a set of good covers I'll be using. I'll replace the bolts for the motor mounts, alternator bracket and power steering bracket as well.

    There is a 1/2'' spot under the crank pulley where the front main had or is leaking. Doesn't look like it ever even dripped. I'll do the front of the motor in the winter, when it's cool. Other than that there are no other leaks. I'm replacing the rear seal, because it's going to be exposed. I have a valve cover that I'm painting too.

    One of the main reasons I'm not doing timing belt, water pump and seals now, other than time, is I don't want to do anything that might affect the motor running. I could see me putting the belt on wrong and the motor not starting. I wouldn't know where to start looking. At least the way it sits it's a running motor.

    Wish me luck getting this batch of rusty bolts off. I'm hoping the ones in the timing cover didn't get salt exposure and only the heads are rusty. PB blaster wouldn't get all the way down inside the cover to help me, although they will be generously doused.
    2001 SE British Racing Green - FM frame rails - FM solid sway bar - FM clutch- Mishimoto 53mm radiator - Bilsteins -
    Complete MK Turbo kit with intercooler - 3'' custom exhaust - Custom door panels - Custom "shorty" console

  7. #27
    Individual-1 ☚☻☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    If this is going to be a winter project, I think you’d really be remiss in not changing out the easy things while the motor is on a stand, starting the the timing belt. Don’t be afraid of it. When you’re done, you can turn the crank and see timing marks lining up.

    Take a few before pictures. This thing is going to look nice with new paint and hardware.

  8. #28
    Original Gearhead Joe Morreale's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    There's an issue that might turn into a real problem, concerning rust. The motor never had ac on it and where the ac bracket bolts on is very rusty. I'm going to try to run a tap in the holes but I have a bad feeling that there won't be enough metal to hold bolts. Anybody have any ideas what I can do? If anyone can confirm that these are 8x1.25 holes that would help me, otherwise I'm going to have to pull a bolt to check.

    2001 SE British Racing Green - FM frame rails - FM solid sway bar - FM clutch- Mishimoto 53mm radiator - Bilsteins -
    Complete MK Turbo kit with intercooler - 3'' custom exhaust - Custom door panels - Custom "shorty" console

  9. #29
    Individual-1 ☚☻☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    Yikes. Looks like a lot of surface rust but I would still try a new bolt after thorough cleaning, following with a thread chaser. You’re going to have to pull a bolt anyway so may as well do it now. I bet the threads are still good. Time to start looking at wire brush attachments for your drill.

  10. #30
    🏁 Apprentice 750+ Pmarcuzzo's Avatar
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    Re: Motor replacement

    I picked up one of these to use with baking soda to blast the old paint of my brass cash register I am working on for the bar. But you can use it with sand too. What about "blasting" it first? https://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-...gun-95793.html
    Paul
    Slightly customized Red '90

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