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Thread: Running warm, again!

  1. #91
    Original Gearhead Joe Morreale's Avatar
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    Re: Running warm, again!

    Took the bumper off to replace my horn and rework my ducting. Resealed the ic, condensor and radiator with flex tape, on the bottom to the inside of the mouth. Glued foam rubber under the mouth and vertically where the edge of the mouth would be. My hope was to seal off any air getting around the radiator and force it through the heat exchangers, at speed, when the fans aren't of any use. Put a little too much foam and the bumper doesn't fit perfect but it's going to stay that way for now.

    Took a trip to St. Pete, 2 hours. In and out of boost at 85-100 mph on 75 and 275 my max temps only hit 210. I felt like an accident waiting to happen though, holding up my laptop at 90 mph! I have to get another cable so I can use my phone. I lost mine. Temps at 70 and 80 mph were at or under 200 degrees. I'm satisfied with that. Eventually I'll most likely do a reroute. Be interesting to see what kind of temp differences it would make.
    2001 SE British Racing Green - FM frame rails - FM solid sway bar - FM clutch- Mishimoto 53mm radiator - Bilsteins -
    Complete MK Turbo kit with intercooler - 3'' custom exhaust - Custom door panels - Custom "shorty" console

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  3. #92
    Individual-1 ☚☻☛ Agent☣Orange's Avatar
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    Re: Running warm, again!

    Joe, with your fan setup, can you control their speed and desired temperature?

  4. #93
    Original Gearhead Joe Morreale's Avatar
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    Re: Running warm, again!

    Quote Originally Posted by Agent☣Orange View Post
    Joe, with your fan setup, can you control their speed and desired temperature?
    I can control when the cooling fan comes on and off. I think I have it set at 195 on, I can't remember off temp. They're single speed.
    2001 SE British Racing Green - FM frame rails - FM solid sway bar - FM clutch- Mishimoto 53mm radiator - Bilsteins -
    Complete MK Turbo kit with intercooler - 3'' custom exhaust - Custom door panels - Custom "shorty" console

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  6. #94
    Original Gearhead Joe Morreale's Avatar
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    Re: Running warm, again!

    I did today what I should have done a long time ago. I installed supermiata's coolant reroute. It was kinda expensive, $250. Made to look like jewelry. Extreme pita to install. It's probably less than a half inch from the firewall. You don't use gaskets, just gray permatex.

    I was driving 75-80mph and temps never got over 190. That's with all of my ducting and stuff off, from putting in the new motor.
    2001 SE British Racing Green - FM frame rails - FM solid sway bar - FM clutch- Mishimoto 53mm radiator - Bilsteins -
    Complete MK Turbo kit with intercooler - 3'' custom exhaust - Custom door panels - Custom "shorty" console

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  8. #95
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    Re: Running warm, again!

    reroute is the way to go

    mine never goes over 180

  9. #96
    Original Gearhead pdexta's Avatar
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    Re: Running warm, again!

    Hope that puts an end to your cooling issues Joe. A reroute does wonders for these cars.
    Scott
    2001 Honda S2000 ♦ 6sp
    2005 Civic Hybrid ♦ 5sp

  10. #97
    Original Gearhead Joe Morreale's Avatar
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    Re: Running warm, again!

    I was under the false impression that a reroute only equalized temps between cylinders, particularly on the 01-05 vvt cars with original head gasket. None of the literature I read claimed such drastic changes.

    The supermiata unit uses a tiny thermostat that's held into the housing with a snap ring. The kit came with a 195* one. Mt.net had the stant number for a 180*, which is what I'm using. The kit comes with two blanking plates. One just covers the hole where the thermostat housing in was. The other, which I'll use when I do tb/wp, allows you to remove the whole neck and block it off from there. The rear housing has multiple threaded holes for sensors. I put my aem sensor (in the dash) in it. Now I'm getting accurate readings, verified by tuner studio. It has another feature, which caused me issues. They have a bleeder valve to burp the system. Like a dumbass I didn't use it and assumed it was closed, as there was no water coming out. After 45 minutes of driving temps started climbing. I shut it off at 220. When I opened the hood I heard a hissing sound. Fearing the worst, I thought the housing was leaking. Remember, no gasket. I looked real close for water leaks and I saw a drop of water come out of the bleeder. Everything was too hot to touch and I didn't bring any tools. After it cooled to 170 I checked the bleeder valve with my finger and it was full open! I closed it finger tight. The cooling system had emptied. I had about 3/4 gallon of distilled water with me. I put it in and tried to see how far I could make it. About 2 miles down the road was a Publix. Bought 4 gallons of water and managed to find a small crescent wrench there. So like a hillbilly there I am in the parking lot, under the hood. The wrench I bought was barely long enough but I was able to close that stupid effing bleeder. Just added water, let it run long enough to burp it and everything worked fine. I'm so happy and lucky that's all it was. Installing that damn thing was one of the most difficult jobs I've done on the car and I dreaded the thought of redoing it.
    2001 SE British Racing Green - FM frame rails - FM solid sway bar - FM clutch- Mishimoto 53mm radiator - Bilsteins -
    Complete MK Turbo kit with intercooler - 3'' custom exhaust - Custom door panels - Custom "shorty" console

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